In Gnome Terminal, change Vim cursor shape for different modes

found my first “why neovim” - making the cursor shape tell you what mode you’re in is ridiculous in vim - https://stackoverflow.com/questions/14266346/how-to-change-vim-cursor-shape-while-in-different-modes-in-gnome-terminal - and just works automatically in nvim

or https://hamberg.no/erlend/posts/2014-03-09-change-vim-cursor-in-iterm.html

or https://stackoverflow.com/questions/10363010/how-to-change-vim-cursor-shape-in-different-modes